We visited this traditional taverna on a square in the back streets of Hydra, where Leonard Cohen and Australian expatriate authors, George Johnston, Charmian Clift and others used to sit under the old pine tree and talk and sing (and drink, undoubtedly). We had a delicious dinner there, under the pine trees, surrounded by cats.

This is the third time we have been to Hydra, but the first time we have been to the taverna. Being avid fans of Johnston and Clift, this was a great experience. We also located their house, not far from the tavern and another of their favourite drinking holes by the harbour (now a café).

It is no wonder that Cohen and the likes were captivated by this island. With carefully preserved stone houses climbing up the steep slopes, a port bustling with donkeys, yachts and taxi boats and cobbled roads devoid of cars, it is the island of choice.

Our trip to Hydra via the main Athenian port, Piraeus, was interesting. The trip to Piraeus was terrific; the boat glided  effortlessly on a glass-like sea, enabling us to really enjoy the ride. We then had to wait about four hours for the Flying Cat catamaran to take us to Hydra. We whiled away some hours in a portside café and then settled ourselves in a modern Greek restaurant for an early dinner.

When we got to the restaurant, there was an Australia woman on her mobile outside, who seemed quite displeased about something; some plans that had gone awry.  When we went inside, there was a group of Greek Australians at a table, discussing a situation and someone, with that same sense of indignation. This continued while we ordered and started our meal. I kept an ear out, being rather nosey (yes, using all my facial structures that day!) and wanting to know what the issue was.

The suspense was relieved when a black motorbike slid into the car park out the front and a leather- jacketed Greek ex Finance Minister got off and sauntered into the restaurant! There was some cheerful banter and then the old couple who owned the restaurant came out to greet him; the old woman kissing him with enthusiasm – we weren’t sure if he was a relative of theirs or whether it was simply a celebrity crush.  Moments later, the group went outside and the ex Finance Minister took off on his bike with a young girl about ten years old, presumably his daughter, on the back.

Gossip aside, we had a great time in Hydra. We went to the local museum, clambered up a million steps and overdosed on olive oil – a fine way to end our time in Europe.